(Written by Masaaki Tanaka)
Hokkaido, which occupies more than 20% of Japan’s land area, has a wealth of tourist attractions, including popular cities such as Sapporo, Hakodate and Otaru.
When you think of Hokkaido, you might think of the vast expanse of land and the large-scale, majestic nature of the island, surrounded by the Pacific Ocean, the Sea of Japan and the Sea of Okhotsk. Hokkaido is also home to dynamic and fantastic landscapes such as the World Natural Heritage Site of Shiretoko, the lavender fields of Furano, Tomamu with its sea of clouds, Noboribetsu Onsen/hot spring, also known as the onsen department store, the Ramar Convention-listed wetlands of Kushiro Marsh, drift ice and diamond dust.
“Hokkaido… the final frontier. Your mission on your tour is to explore an attractive world, to seek out encounters with a lot of new people, to boldly go where you have never gone before.”
Well, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but visitors to Hokkaido hundreds of years ago would have felt this way, even if they had never seen Star Trek. And even now, every time you come to Hokkaido on a tour, many new discoveries are sure to delight you. This time, the focus is on Susukino in Sapporo!
Having reviewed the attractions of Hokkaido, let’s take a brief look at the history of Susukino, where you can enjoy everything you were already aware of and further unknown charms.
Table of Contents：
1. The history of Susukino
2. Why should you come to Susukino? Because Susukino is the final frontier in Hokkaido!
3. It’s fun to go to these kinds of places on your trip!
1) Izakaya
2) Club
3) Bar
4) Snack bar
4. Events in Susukino
5. One of the tips for you in Susukino
The history of Susukino
Today Susukino is known as Sapporo’s entertainment district. It is renowned as one of Japan’s three major entertainment districts, along with Kabukicho in Shinjuku Ward, Tokyo and Nakasu in the city of Fukuoka. At night, the area becomes a bustling place with neon lights shining brightly. The lively nightlife there is one of Hokkaido’s most iconic attractions.
Susukino has followed an unusual trajectory to the present day.
In 1869, the Hokkaido Kaitakushi or Hokkaido Development Commission was established in Sapporo, with responsibility for the administration and development of Hokkaido. Its objectives included developing Hokkaido’s roads, railways and ports, developing mines, building government-owned factories, establishing Sapporo Agricultural College, and opening up the region with farmer-soldier pioneers. The Japanese government at that time also urgently needed to strengthen national defense in the north against Russia’s southward policy, so it hurried to develop Hokkaido. In the early days of Hokkaido’s settlement, the Sapporo area was an empty wilderness with only seven ethnic Japanese living there. In Hokkaido, which at that time was dominated by the maritime industry, people naturally flocked to port cities such as Hakodate and Otaru.
How did Sapporo develop from such a situation to the northern metropolis which now boasts a population of just under two million? One reason for this was the establishment of the Kaitakushi or Hokkaido Development Commission here in Sapporo. It is said that the site was chosen because it is mostly a plain and because it is stable land, known as an ‘alluvial fan’, from which water gushes.
More than 10,000 construction contractors, carpenters and craftsmen, including farmer-soldiers, were then recruited to build the town of Sapporo, but the work was hard and many returned home in the cold winter. The Kaitakushi, who wanted to develop the area quickly, had a licensed red-light district in Susukino built as a place of entertainment to keep the workers in Sapporo. This worked better than expected and a town was built around it in just a few years. A number of villages were also established around Sapporo by the farmer-soldiers who were responsible for guarding and pioneering in the north, as well as by the pioneer settlers.
After World War Two, when the coal mines that had defined an era in Hokkaido’s history closed, people seeking work began to settle in Sapporo, and the city expanded, taking in its surroundings and developing into the metropolis it is today. The original red-light district was located on the outskirts of Sapporo, but moved much further into the suburbs as the area gradually became more urbanized.
Meanwhile, after the red-light district was relocated, restaurants, cafés, teahouses, and bars sprang up in Susukino, which, together with the development of Tanuki Koji or Raccoon-dog Alley, a shopping street to the north, launched it on a new path as a neon-lit entertainment district.
Why should you come to Susukino? Because Susukino is the final frontier in Hokkaido!
Susukino is not an official place name and the area is vaguely defined as people have different ideas about its extent, but Susukino is still the largest entertainment area in northern Japan. It is located in the center of Sapporo now and is easily accessible by public transport such as subways and buses. The area is said to have a concentration of more than 3,000 shops, restaurants, bars, etc., and on weekends visitors keep coming until dawn. Susukino is also characterized not only by the number of shops, restaurants and bars, but also by its three-dimensional spread amongst a cluster of buildings. Within a single building, there are restaurants, entertainment establishments, hotels and related facilities next to each other.
As you know, Hokkaido is said to be a ‘treasure trove of ingredients’, and there are many delicious dishes, with fresh seafood, meats, vegetables and dairy products, etc. The downtown Susukino area is said to be one of the best places to eat and drink in Sapporo, and is bustling with travellers and locals alike. There are a number of restaurants in the area that offer local Hokkaido cuisine, such as sushi, ramen noodles, Genghis Khan (which is actually Mongolian lamb/mutton barbecue) and soup curry, etc., as well as international cuisine from countries all over the world.
Of course, it’s not just about food: there are also a number of lively drinking places, with a high concentration of bars, nightclubs, snack bars, izakayas (taverns) and a wide variety of other establishments. There are plenty of opportunities to mingle with locals at bars and izakayas, where you can talk to them about Hokkaido’s culture or ask them for recommendations on places to visit here in Sapporo.
It’s fun to go to these kinds of places on your trip!
Izakaya
Izakayas are mass-market restaurants serving alcoholic beverages, mainly Japanese sake and shochu or Japanese spirits, and food, mainly Japanese cuisine. They range in size from large chain restaurants to privately owned establishments.
Izakayas first appeared in the 1600’s, when liquor shops began to serve sake and simple snacks in their shops in addition to selling sake. Drinking while standing at a counter was the mainstream style, but later various restaurants began to serve alcohol as well, and the izakaya format was established. At that time, many men lived alone, and the izakaya style, where alcohol was served with meals, quickly became popular and became an inseparable part of Japan’s eating out culture.
For a very long time, the image of the izakaya as a place for men to drink sake after work was firmly rooted in people’s minds. This image gradually began to change around the late 1970s. Working women began to play an active role in the izakaya industry, and izakayas also began to develop their own characteristics with a focus on stylish interiors, with a view to attracting female customers as well as male customers. As wine and other Western alcoholic beverages became more widespread, the number of women using izakayas began to increase.
Club
Clubs are recommended for those who want to dance the night away with lively music and lighting.
Clubs are places where people can enjoy music played by DJs in a variety of forms. They are very similar to discos, but discos in general tend to have an all-genre selection of music, including pop music, to suit the needs of a larger audience. Clubs, on the other hand, are more musical in nature and are somewhat limited in the music genres they play, depending on the club or the day.
Bar
Typical bars are Western-style drinking establishments where bartenders serve Western liquors and cocktails, mainly whisky.
There is a rich variety of bars: some have a concept theme, some are glamorous, some are hideaways where you can sit back and enjoy yourself, and some have a relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy a quiet cocktail or whisky. Some of the authentic bars are often relatively small and have a quiet atmosphere, so do not bring a large group of people during your trip. Depending on the size of the bar and whether it has tables or not, a good rule of thumb is to be a group of no more than three or four people.
Snack bar
Snack bars are intimate spaces where you can enjoy conversation with the hostesses and sing karaoke.
The ‘mama’ of a snack bar (‘master’ in the case of a man) is the woman who runs or manages the snack bar. You can enjoy drinking and eating while chatting, and singing karaoke with the mama and other female employees.
If you would like to visit these izakayas, clubs, bars and snack bars during your tour, please contact Hokkaido Treasure Island Travel Inc.
Now let us show you some of the places we can take you during your trip.
1. A snack bar with many female staff and a glamorous atmosphere, always crowded with friendly people.
The concept here is to create a peaceful space that can be enjoyed wholeheartedly and that will be loved by everyone.
Generally snack bars are places to enjoy drinks and snacks in a casual atmosphere. It is characterized, among other things, by the interaction with regular customers and the heart-warming service. And the biggest attraction is its homely atmosphere. The mama and staff there are friendly and easy to get to know, allowing even first-timers to blend in quickly.
The mama here is an attractive lady from Hokkaido who looks good in a kimono, and you can enjoy friendly conversation with her.
She was born in Sapporo and lived in Tokyo and Yokohama for a long time, due to her parents’ transfers for work, etc. She seems as if she grew up in the city, but she told us with a laugh that actually she lived right in the suburbs of Yokohama, where there were still air-raid shelters and the countryside was home to moles and rat snakes.
As you enjoy a chat with the mama and staff over a glass of Sapporo Classic draught beer or a glass of shochu/Japanese spirits with green tea, it will be easy to forget that the night is passing by during your trip!
2. A karaoke bar where you can enjoy karaoke to your heart’s content on stage with a live band in the background.
The concept of this place is to provide a social space for people who share a common interest in music. In this social space, we can connect with other guests, bringing staff members and guests closer together in a homely atmosphere, and encouraging many people to experience the joy of life through singing.
Once you sing your favorite song on stage, you’ll feel so good and you’ll probably end up getting hooked!
The rules here are that when it is your turn to sing, you must sing on stage as a superstar, you must not interrupt when other superstars are singing, and dancing in front of the stage is very much encouraged.
The ceiling with exposed pipes and the concrete walls give it a cool, modern feel. Songs are backed by a spectacular live band, with mirror balls twinkling and occasional billows from the smoke machines, creating a glittering atmosphere. This is already thrilling enough, but the excitement reaches its peak when other guests start dancing in front of the stage, or when you sing and everyone gets excited. And when other guests sing, you can dance to your heart’s content in front of the stage and get even more excited.
3. Traditional nightclub with live band and dancing, opened more than 50 years ago.
Live bands perform four to five sets a day, so you can experience a powerful live performance at any time of the day.
During these sets, you can enjoy a diverse repertoire of Western and Japanese music, ranging from danceable pop music through powerful rock, funk and soul to quiet ballads. The band is also happy to accommodate requests for songs to be played whenever possible. Here you will find a line-up of professional vocalists to get you dancing, skilled musicians to bring the performance to life and a DJ to liven up the intervals.
The spacious nightclub offers a dance floor in front of the stage, as well as various types of box seats and counter seats, where you can enjoy excellent music performed by live bands in any style you like. For those who want to dance to a live band, box seats close to the stage are recommended. For those who want to enjoy conversation while listening to music, there are also bench seat-type box seats located at the rear or in the aisles. The counter, where you can get a bird’s-eye view of the stage and the venue, is a space where you can enjoy music as well as conversation and drinks, and where you can casually drop in.
4. A pub with an LGBT funny and attractive mama where you can enjoy a brisk conversation and karaoke, dressing up as a favorite manga character or any profession.
The mama here used to work in the Japanese culinary world, but took over this pub seven years ago. She has very fair skin and her recommended skincare is to eat well. Maybe that’s why she’s a little plump and so lovely. She smiled and said that her cheetah print dress would transform into a leopard print.
Inbound visitors are welcome here, but you are especially encouraged to come with a guide who speaks English and Japanese if possible, as it is a place to enjoy free-wheeling conversations. You can enjoy an unforgettable night in Susukino by taking photos in over 100 free costumes, and enjoying karaoke in unison with all the guests there.
5. A bar where you can enjoy games and karaoke, with a concept that recreates and enjoys nostalgic elements with a modern sensibility.
The bar is always busy with guests of all ages and genders, with city pop tunes playing in the background.
6. A bar where chatting with the plump female staff can soothe and invigorate you.
They are great conversationalists and their company can be enjoyed by women as well as men.
7. An old-fashioned snack bar loved by locals.
This is a cosy snack bar where the mama, a football fan, welcomes you with a charming smile.
The places listed here are just a few of the many fascinating and exciting ones to visit in Susukino. It is also the venue for several events, and it is a good idea to enjoy Susukino on your tour accordingly.
Events in Susukino
Various events are held in Susukino each season. The Susukino Festival, Susukino Ice World or the Susukino venue for the Sapporo Snow Festival, the YOSAKOI Soran Festival FUNKY! in Susukino venue are some of the places that can be enjoyed throughout the year.
Susukino Ice World
This festival is held in February as the Susukino venue of the Sapporo Snow Festival and attracts many tourists from all over the world. Around 60 ice sculptures are built on the main street and competitions are held.
YOSAKOI Soran Festival
The YOSAKOI Soran Festival is a dance event born in 1992 with its roots in the Yosakoi Festival in Kochi Prefecture. It combines the naruko clappers of the Yosakoi Festival with the folk song Soranbushi from Hokkaido.
Susukino Festival
The Susukino Festival is held in August and celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2024. In addition to traditional events such as the parade of courtesans in historical costumes, a powerful ritual where a portable shrine is carried through the venue and taiko drum performances are held on the first day of the festival.
Now, after enjoying Susukino and a lot of drinking, we wanted to finish off the evening with Sapporo’s soul food, ramen noodles. People used to finish with miso ramen, in particular at a place like Ramen Yokocho/Ramen Alley, but now it is popular to finish with a parfait! If you still have enough room, you could try both.
One of the tips for you in Susukino
Now, choose the places that suit your tastes and enjoy it to the fullest during your trip! However, if you think it’s hard to find such places on your own, why not take a tour first? We, Hokkaido Treasure Island Travel Inc., can offer you a lot of attractive and precious experiences there on a Susukino tour.
One example is the Susukino Nightlife Exploration below. A Susukino-savvy, fluent English-speaking guide will accompany you and create wonderful moments together with you on your tour. Going with a guide provides peace of mind, as it eliminates worries about complicated fees, and allows you to fully enjoy communicating with the staff and other local guests there.
Susukino Nightlife Exploration
Susukino is a spectacular stage for Hokkaido’s nightlife. The variety of entertainment, the lively drinking area and the interaction with the locals make it an endless source of fascination.
We encourage you to make Sapporo with the brilliant nightlife in Susukino one of your main attractions. Your itinerary can be customized to suit your interests. Let Hokkaido Treasure Island Travel Inc. take care of you!
