(Written by Isis Berns)
So you think you know Japan. You’ve been to Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, and maybe even Hiroshima. Those were the first places I visited on my first two trips to Japan, too. Well, my fellow traveler, if you haven’t been to Hokkaido, then you haven’t seen Japan’s final frontier.
Those cities mentioned above are the unmissable hearts of traditional and modern Japan. But if you’re looking for the wild, the spacious, and the profoundly different, you must add Hokkaido to your next custom Hokkaido tour.
Welcome back to our series, “Meet the Travel Consultants,” with the local experts at Hokkaido Treasure Island Travel. I’m Isis Berns, a Canadian-born, Hokkaido media personality. This month, I’m sitting down with Mari Taniguchi, a travel consultant whose journey from the vibrant, bustling heart of Osaka to the rugged north of Hokkaido gives her a unique perspective. She’s one of the passionate individuals here who live and breathe this magnificent island, transforming a standard vacation into a journey of a lifetime.
Mari’s specialty? Pushing the boundaries of what a Hokkaido travel itinerary can be. We’ll explore her passion for challenging hikes with surprise rewards, her insider tips for staying safe in the actual wild (yes, we’ll talk bears and… toilets), and how she creates one-of-a-kind experiences, like a 7-hour snowy stakeout to see a rare flying squirrel. Whether you’re dreaming of scaling a mountain or just want to find the best-hidden restaurant in Otaru, our local connections unlock experiences you can’t find on your own.
Hokkaido is waiting to be the destination of your next wild adventure!
Table of Contents：
Part 1: The City Girl’s Escape: Why an Osaka Native Chose Hokkaido
– From the Heart of Western Japan to the Wild North
– The “A-ha!” Moment: A View That Changes Everything
– Hokkaido’s Ultimate Perk: The One-Day Adventure
Part 2: What’s on Your Hokkaido Itinerary? Mari’s Top Picks
– A Foodie’s Find: The Best Herring in Otaru
– The 7-Hour Stakeout: Crafting an “Impossible” Wildlife Tour
– A Hiker’s Guide to Japan: Greetings, Gear, and Gourmet Ramen at the Summit
Part 3: “You vs. Wild” (Hokkaido Edition): Why You Need a Local Guide
– The Bear Essentials: Staying Safe in Bear Country
– Nature Calls: The Truth About Hiking in the Deep Wild
– How “No” Becomes “Yes”: The Art of the Truly Custom Tour
Part 4: Finding Your “New Favorite Something” in Hokkaido
– Beyond the Private Tour: A New Way for Solo Travelers to Explore
– Hokkaido’s “Weird” and Wonderful History (It’s Deeper Than You Think)
– Mari’s Final Message: Your Own Hokkaido Challenge Awaits
Part 1: The City Girl’s Escape: Why an Osaka Native Chose Hokkaido
From the Heart of Western Japan to the Wild North
The first thing you need to know about Mari Taniguchi is that she loves Osaka. Born and raised in the vibrant city—a place bustling with energy, incredible food, and now, as it recently held the 2025 World Expo, boasting its status as the center of Western Japan—Osaka was Mari’s standard for “the best.”
“After I spent 1.5 years in Toronto on a working holiday, I realized Japan is the best country to live in,” she tells me. “And I loved Osaka the most! Kyoto and Nara are a quick train ride away. It’s a perfect location.”
But then, a new thought sparked. “I realized I can’t say Osaka is the best if I’ve never lived anywhere else”.
This simple, curious thought is what makes Mari the perfect travel consultant. She’s not just adventurous; she’s driven to know. “It sounds brave,” she says, “but I was just curious what my options were.” She applied for jobs from Hokkaido to Okinawa, but an offer from Hokkaido Treasure Island Travel piqued her interest most.
Mari’s start in Hokkaido was… rough. She arrived during the pandemic, and the atmosphere was a shock. “In Osaka or Tokyo, nobody was wearing masks anymore,” she recalls, “but here, people still wear masks. That felt distant. When I was told to wear a mask, I thought, ‘I’ve come to another country!’” she laughs.
“It’s true!” I had to agree. “Many people say Hokkaido feels like a different country from Japan. It’s not just ‘the air is fresher here,’ everything is different!”
During COVID, the streets felt dark and empty. It was a tough beginning. But her first successful tour, with clients who were incredibly kind and booked another trip almost immediately, gave her a glimmer of hope.
“What made you stay in Hokkaido?” I asked.
“I knew it would take time to adjust,” Mari says thoughtfully. “As long as I can eventually get used to it, I’ll stay.”
And thank goodness she did. Today, Mari is one of the most popular travel consultants, crafting over 30 unique, fully customized tours a year.
The “A-ha!” Moment: A View That Changes Everything
So what was the turning point? What cemented Mari’s love for this new, wild home of Hokkaido?
“Apoi-dake,” she says, without hesitation. “Mt. Apoi. The first time I climbed it, I loved it.” This UNESCO Global Geopark in south-central Hokkaido isn’t one of Japan’s most famous peaks, but it’s special. “On one side, you see the ocean; on the other, you can see plains stretching out. It’s wonderful, and that’s what made me feel, ‘Ah, Hokkaido is nice.’”
But another favorite spot is one she encounters often through work, on the drive to Lake Toya. “Do you know the National Highway 230, after the hot spring area of Sapporo, past Jozankei?” Mari asks, her eyes lighting up. “The one where you can see the panoramic view of Mt. Yotei? That is one of my favorite views in Hokkaido.”
“It makes you gasp every time you see it, right?” I said, agreeing. “You forget how big and majestic Mt. Yotei is, and then bam! There it is.” The magnificent, cone-shaped volcano you see from the highway pass is Mt. Yotei. It stands at 1,898 meters (6,227 feet) high.
“Exactly,” she nods. “Every time I see it, I tell myself, ‘Okay, I’ll keep working hard.’”
Pro Tip: You can experience this exact view at the Nakayama Toge pass. The Michi-no-Eki (roadside station) Boyo Nakayama is located at the peak of the Nakayama Toge pass along National Route 230. It’s strategically located right on the main driving route between Sapporo and the popular Niseko/Lake Toya areas. It’s about a 60-minute drive from central Sapporo. It’s also about a 60-minute drive from the famous winter resort hub, Hirafu in Niseko, making it a perfect halfway rest stop. This particular Michi-no-Eki is renowned for its Age-Imo—a deep-fried, battered potato on a stick that is the ideal, hearty Hokkaido snack. They are wildly popular. The station sells approximately 300,000 to 400,000 sticks of Age-Imo every single year!
Hokkaido’s Ultimate Perk: The One-Day Adventure
What truly separates Hokkaido from the rest of Japan? It’s not just that nature is bigger; it’s that it’s so close to the city, it’s right there.
“I love the nature here because it’s easy to access these incredible locations,” Mari explains. “You can do a full day trip to hike a mountain, get into a hot spring, and you still have time to stop by and eat great, local ice cream. You can take trips like this in many places around the island of Hokkaido in one day.”
This, Mari stresses, is not as easy in Osaka. “If I tried to do that in Osaka, I’d have to ride a train 3+ hours, switch trains more than once… Even if I did eventually go hiking, it wouldn’t be a proper mountain, but more like a small hill.”
Even Sapporo, a city of nearly 2 million people, has the perk of easy access to hiking. “Here in Sapporo City, there’s Maruyama Mountain,” she notes, “an easy trip to take, and it’s a nice mountain to climb.” She’s absolutely right; it’s one of the city’s most beloved spots. Located right in Chuo Ward, the trailhead is just a short walk from the Maruyama Koen subway station. At only 225 meters high, it’s a popular, easy climb that most people reach the summit in 40 to 60 minutes. The most common path, the “88 Temples Trail”, guides you up the mountain past dozens of small Buddhist statues, making for a culturally rich and refreshing hike you can easily complete in under two hours.
If you want to experience the grand nature of this nation without sacrificing your entire Japan travel itinerary to get there, Hokkaido is the best answer.
Part 2: What’s on Your Hokkaido Itinerary? Mari’s Top Picks
Working on more than 30 unique tours a year means Mari has seen—and planned—it all. Her philosophy? “Every time I make a tour… I try to make sure I enjoy it too. If I go to these places, I’d have a great time.”
A Foodie’s Find: The Best Herring in Otaru
“What’s your favorite Hokkaido food?” I asked, expecting the usual answer: crab, uni, or soup curry.
“Nishin,” Mari replied. Herring.
“Herring?!”
“In Osaka, I don’t recall seeing herring being sold fresh in the supermarkets,” she explains. “And if I did, they were tiny. Like the ones they have in Nishin-Soba (herring in hot noodle soup), which are small because they’re dried.”
“So when I came to Hokkaido and saw the large, fresh herring for sale, I had to try it! I fried it myself and thought it was delicious. And it’s cheap!”
For travelers who want to try this local delicacy, Mari has a top herring restaurant recommendation: “I love the size of the herring that Aotsuka-Shokudo serves in Otaru,” she says. It’s a fantastic local spot right by the Otaru aquarium, overlooking the sea, where the herring were once the backbone of Hokkaido’s economy.
The 7-Hour Stakeout: Crafting an “Impossible” Wildlife Tour
This is where a custom Hokkaido tour goes from “great” to “unforgettable.” I asked Mari for any unique or recent requests.
“Yes! Recently, I got a request from a cameraman to spend 7 hours in the snow to encounter and capture the Ezo Momonga (Siberian flying squirrel).”
“Whoa! In the middle of freezing winter, for a tiny squirrel?”
“And the Shima-enaga (long-tailed tit),” she adds. These are two of Hokkaido’s most iconic and adorable “critters.” They are tiny, fast, and tough to find. This isn’t a zoo trip. This is a genuine, in-the-wild expedition that requires expert local knowledge, patience, and a willingness to brave the cold. And Mari can make it happen, thanks to her key connections with professional local guides all over Hokkaido who specialize in finding these elusive creatures.
A Hiker’s Guide to Japan: Greetings, Gear, and Gourmet Ramen at the Summit
Mari is an avid hiker, a passion she started purely to make new friends in Sapporo. “I have the image that hikers are kind,” she says, “like, if you’re in a pinch on the mountain, fellow hikers are quick to jump in and help each other out.” She joined a local hiking group and now has a wealth of knowledge for anyone wanting to explore Hokkaido’s peaks.
Mari’s Travel Tip! Hiking Rules in Japan:
・Greetings are a Must: “Always greet each other on the mountain!” Mari says. A simple Konnichiwa (Hello) or Doumo (Thanks) is essential. Why? It’s not just politeness; it’s a safety check. It makes you part of the mountain community, acknowledging each other’s presence.
・The Right Words: “Once, someone told me, ‘Try not to say Otsukaresama desu or Ganbatte (Good job / You’re almost there).’” These phrases can sometimes sound patronizing. It’s better to say Ki o tsukete ne (Be careful) or Keshiki kirei da ne (The view is beautiful, isn’t it?).
・The Ultimate Reward: “It was my dream to climb a mountain in Japan and eat an onigiri at the top, just like in the anime and dramas I’ve watched!” I told her. I finally made that dream happen on Mt. Asahidake, the highest peak in Hokkaido, and I can confirm: it’s the best-tasting rice ball you’ll ever have.
Eating at the summit in Japan isn’t just about refueling; it’s a cultural celebration. It’s the ultimate reward for the hard work of the climb, a chance to finally stop, savor the achievement, and take in the view. It’s also a deeply communal act; you rest together, share your food, and congratulate each other.
“Most of the hiking group likes to eat Cup Ramen,” Mari revealed. “Even in Hokkaido’s summer, the hike can be cold, especially at the top”.
“Wait, so they just bring hot water in a tumbler?” I asked.
“It’s more than that!” she laughs. “Some people bring their own portable burners and water boilers. They even boil eggs, and bring Chashu (broiled pork) and make it a full, gorgeous meal!”
This is the uniquely Japanese twist: creating a moment of comfort and luxury in a wild, rugged place. It’s about recreating that iconic moment of simple, earned joy. Now I want what they’re having…
Imagine that. You’ve just finished a challenging 3-hour hike, and your local guide is setting up a mini-kitchen to serve you a steaming, gourmet bowl of ramen with all the fixings, all while overlooking a panoramic view of the Hokkaido wilderness.
“And you can do this on the tours you customize, right?” I asked.
“Of course,” Mari smiled.
Part 3: “You vs. Wild” (Hokkaido Edition): Why You Need a Local Guide
This is not an exaggeration. Hokkaido is wild. Unlike the well-manicured trails you might find near Tokyo or Kyoto, hiking here means you are a guest in a powerful, untamed natural environment.
The Bear Essentials: Staying Safe in Bear Country
“I remember meeting a foreigner at the top of Asahidake, the highest mountain in Hokkaido,” I shared with Mari. “They were in thin layers and sneakers and asked me, ‘Am I okay going to the top with this gear?’ I had to be honest and say, ‘It’s a lot colder and more slippery up there than it looks! The more gear, the better!’”
This is a common-but-dangerous mistake. And the weather isn’t the only risk. We have to talk about bears.
Hokkaido is home to a large population of the Ussuri brown bear, the Higuma. “Bears are coming out so much more lately in Sapporo City,” Mari notes, “This year is way more than other years.”
This is why a local guide is non-negotiable for serious hiking. They have the bear bells, the bear spray, and—most importantly—the local information. A website can’t tell you if a bear was just spotted on your trail 10 minutes ago. A local guide can.
Nature Calls: The Truth About Hiking in the Deep Wild
Okay, let’s talk about the other “call of the wild.”
“Hokkaido has longer distances,” Mari says, “With that distance, remember, there might not be toilets. In Hokkaido, it’s all WILD. You need to bring your own toilet packs.”
This is the real, unglamorous, and essential advice you get from a pro. If you want that “You vs. Wild” experience—a multi-day trek across the Asahidake range, sleeping in tents, and dipping in natural hot springs—Mari can plan it. But she’ll also make sure you’re prepared for the reality that “there may not be toilets!”
How “No” Becomes “Yes”: The Art of the Truly Custom Tour
This is what defines Mari’s work ethic. I ask her about handling complex requests.
“The travelers have better ideas than I do!” she insists. “I want to listen to my customers’ requests… I think their ideas are much more interesting than mine! So I want to take that and make it fun.”
This is her challenge. “If it’s not possible, I’ll try my best to make it possible. If it’s a no, then it’s a no, but I want to find out why it’s a no, and figure out if I can clear that stage to shift that ‘no’ into a ‘YES.’”
This is the magic of a true travel consultant. They are not just booking agents; they are problem-solvers, logisticians, and dream-builders.
Part 4: Finding Your “New Favorite Something” in Hokkaido
Mari’s passion isn’t just for her clients’ adventures; it’s for her own, too. She’s constantly pushing to do more.
“If I don’t keep doing new things, I might get bored here in Hokkaido,” she says. “I might go somewhere else to do something more interesting!”
Beyond the Private Tour: A New Way for Solo Travelers to Explore
One of her new ideas is a “recruitment-style tour” (boshugata tour), a group trip designed for solo travelers.
“There are a lot of people who want to travel, but they’re alone,” she explains. “A private tour just for them would be costly. And there are a lot of places you can’t get to without a car.”
Her idea? A one-week group tour to Wakkanai, the northernmost tip of Japan. “Even the Japanese want to go and say they visited!” she says. “It’s a tour for people who think, ‘I want to go, but I haven’t been yet’ or ‘I’d go if someone else would go with me.’”
It’s a brilliant way to make Hokkaido’s remote corners accessible, and a chance to make new friends along the way. She’s also planning “Hokkaido Gourmet” tours and “Only Women” tours.
Hokkaido’s “Weird” and Wonderful History (It’s Deeper Than You Think)
Some people say Hokkaido has “no history” (rekishi ga asai). This is a massive misconception.
“That’s not true,” Mari says. “The land itself has always been there. The history of Hokkaido is there.”
It’s just different from mainland Japan. This is the land of the indigenous Ainu people. This is the land of the Jomon period, whose ancient sites are a UNESCO World Heritage treasure. This is a land beloved by anthropologists.
“Hokkaido has dinosaur museums!” I add. “And what about the Kokuyoseki (obsidian) in the Tokachi area?” This volcanic glass was a precious tool for prehistoric people, and Hokkaido’s sites are among the richest in the world.
“Hokkaido is weird, I think,” Mari muses. “Travelling around the island, you think, why would people live here? …In Hokkaido, people gather around places and towns that are small, far, or dangerous, but there must be a reason for it!”
“Like Lake Toya,” I say. “The volcano could erupt… and yet people live there by choice.”
I’m referring to Mount Usu, the active volcano that looms right on the southern shore of Lake Toya. It is one of Japan’s most active volcanoes and has a remarkably consistent history of erupting every 20-30 years, with the last major eruption happening in 2000. “Any day now, right?” I joke. But this is the exact paradox Mari was talking about. “There’s a reason for each place,” I continue. People live by the volcano because of the volcano. The same geothermal energy that makes it dangerous also creates the region’s famous hot springs, the fertile soil for its delicious vegetables, and the stunning, dramatic landscape that draws visitors from around the world.
“Discover why people live here,” Mari says. “That’s the real journey.”
Mari’s Final Message: Your Own Hokkaido Challenge Awaits
When I ask Mari what she wants travelers to take away from her tours, her answer is simple: “Find your ‘new favorite something’ in Hokkaido.”
“Have you found yours?” I ask her.
“Yeah, I’ve found myself,” she says. “Since coming here, I’ve done many new things… Like hiking, climbing, and wood chopping. I learned how to make a bonfire. SUP and kayak. And cutting fish… Here, fish is so cheap, I can easily buy and learn to cook with it.”
“That’s a lot of new favorites!” I laugh. “I also have many new favorites in Hokkaido,” I tell her. “That’s why I haven’t left even after 15 years. I’m with you completely, Mari. I’ll only leave Hokkaido when I feel bored. But not yet!”
“Not yet!” she agrees.
So if you want to do something outside the box, challenge yourself, or have a dream Hokkaido travel itinerary that seems a little on the “wild side of Japan,” Mari Taniguchi is the travel consultant for you.
“Bring your ideas,” she says. “We’ll do our best to make that dream trip of yours come true in northern Japan.”
