Niseko-Shakotan-Otaru Coast Quasi-National Park

(Written by Masaaki Tanaka)

Why should you come to Hokkaido and in particular the Niseko, Shakotan and Otaru coastal area?

Hokkaido, the northernmost island in Japan, has a unique natural environment that differs from that of the Honshu mainland or other Japanese islands.

There are many areas in Hokkaido that are well managed to protect the rich natural environment and wildlife that are Hokkaido’s main attractions, and to allow you to get close to nature.

For example, Hokkaido has a world natural heritage site, 2 world GEO parks, 7 national parks, 5 quasi-national parks, 11 Hokkaido parks and 13 Ramsar Convention-listed wetlands.

In particular, the Niseko-Shakotan-Otaru Coast Quasi-National Park is located just a short distance from Sapporo but allows you to easily enjoy the breathtaking Shakotan Peninsula coastline, the majestic Niseko volcanoes, and its many attractive hot springs (onsen) and so on.

The Niseko mountain range with its 1,000-meter mountains and Raiden Coast, and the coast from the Shakotan Peninsula to Otaru are included in this park, which covers both land and sea areas. It features outstanding mountain scenery such as Niseko Annupuri and Chisenupuri, and a magnificent coastal landscape with a series of sea cliffs. It is the only park in Hokkaido designated as an underwater park area as well.

Must-sees in the Niseko, Shakotan and Otaru coastal area!

・ Shakotan Peninsula

The first is Candle Rock, a strange rock that can be seen from the national road in Yoichi, just after entering the peninsula.

Beyond that, Cape Shakotan’s Shimamui Beach has been selected as one of the 100 best beaches in Japan. It is thrilling to leave the dark tunnel and suddenly see the vivid sea below. The observatory overlooking the sea is known as a spectacular viewpoint.

Furthermore, Cape Kamui, at the tip of the peninsula, can be reached in 20 minutes on a walking trail along the ridge of the peninsula, with a great unobstructed view of Kamui Rock rising out of the sea.

The flowers that bloom along the coast around Shimamui Beach and Cape Kamui are also one of the highlights, with the best time to see them being in June for the rugosa roses and candlestick lilies, and from June to August for the day lilies, which add red and orange-yellow hues to the spectacular scenery.

The clear blue of the sea that can be seen from these locations is known as ‘Shakotan blue’ and is described as a unique beauty of this peninsula.

Why is the sea of Shakotan blue?

The reason for the blue transparency is that the sea of Shakotan has few green seaweeds and the rocks on the seabed can be seen as they are, which is why they are reflected blue.

So why is there so little seaweed in the Shakotan sea?

In Shakotan, two main types of sea urchin are caught, which are said to be a Shakotan specialty. They feed on seaweed shoots during the winter. Therefore, in the sea of Shakotan, there is little seaweed and only the white rocks in the sea are reflected, making it look this wonderful cobalt blue.

Shakotan is also home to some famous legends.

The love story of Yoshitsune, the most famous and tragic hero of Japan’s Warring States period (15th-16th centuries), and an Ainu girl is told here.

The Ainu are the indigenous people of Hokkaido, with their own language and culture distinct from that of the ethnic Japanese.

The Ainu girl had strong feelings for Yoshitsune, however he left for the continent. She followed him to Cape Kamui, but Yoshitsune’s ship was far offshore. Saddened, she threw herself into the sea, leaving behind words of resentment: ‘If a ship of the Japanese people passes here with a woman on board, it will overturn and sink’. Her body became the Kamui Rock, and since then, whenever a ship carrying a woman approached the area, it capsized, making Cape Kamui a no-go area for women.

However, it is also said that the Matsumae clan, which was in charge of Hokkaido at the time, wanted to prevent Japanese from settling in the outback and to monopolize the fishing industry and trade with the Ainu people, so it used this legend as an excuse for imposing a ban on women.

・ Otaru Coast

While the eastern part of Otaru’s urban area continues into the metropolitan area of Sapporo, the western and northern parts of the city are relatively sparsely populated, quiet, relaxed and close to the sea.

To the north of Otaru’s urban area is a rugged terrain where the ridge plunges all the way down to the sea, and the Shukutsu Panorama Observatory is the viewpoint from where the cliffs can be seen.

With the Otaru Aquarium below, this observation deck offers a magnificent panoramic view.

In this area of the aquarium, called the Marine Park, seals and sea lions live in a dynamic pool that is simply partitioned off from the sea. This pool is the sea itself, so it is rich in kelp and other seaweed, teeming with fish, and inhabited by sea urchins, sea cucumbers and other creatures.

This bountiful natural environment also allows wild seals to rest on the nearby rocks and Steller’s sea lions to climb over the breakwater from the sea.

The Hiyoriyama Lighthouse at the tip of Cape Takashima can also be seen, with its impressive red and white appearance.

Near Hiyoriyama Lighthouse is a large fishermen’s residence built at the end of the 19th century, which was moved here nearly 70 years ago.

Between the 1800s and 1950s, herring fishing with nets was carried out in the coastal areas of the Sea of Japan in Hokkaido. The fishermen made huge profits by catching all the herring that came in large shoals to spawn in early spring, and buildings known as fishermen’s residences were built near various fishing grounds.

Fishermen’s residences, used as a base for the fishing industry, were originally built near the coast and not located on such high ground, but you can see how the master’s residence and the workers’ living space coexist, and look at various exhibits such as fishing equipment and daily tools that were actually used.

Also in this area is a villa built in the 1920s by the Aoyama family, one of the major fishing magnates. The total construction cost is said to be 3 billion yen in today’s prices, with luxurious interiors to entertain guests; the sliding door paintings, sculptures and calligraphy by leading artists are must-sees.

The Shukutsu Panorama Observatory here is also the perfect place to watch the sunset over the Shakotan Peninsula, and the ever-changing colors of the sea and sky will make for an unforgettable trip.

In addition, sightseeing boats that offer a good view of the spectacular Otaru coastal cliffs from the sea and cruise boats that go to the Blue Cave are also becoming increasingly popular.

The cave became known as the Blue Cave due to the beautiful color of the water inside the cave, which opens onto the sea beneath the steep rock to the east of the Shioya fishing port.

・ Niseko area

This is known as a region dotted with abundant hot springs and as a ski resort area that is attracting attention at home and abroad for its world-class powder snow.

Rafting and canoeing on the Shiribetsu River, voted the clearest river in Japan, are popular summer activities, and the magnificent view of Mt. Yotei is not to be missed. Mt. Yotei, also known as Ezo Fuji, is a beautiful cone-shaped mountain, much like Mt. Fuji. Ezo is the former name of Hokkaido. In fact though, Mt. Yotei itself is part of the Shikotsu-Toya National Park…

The Niseko mountain range, with Niseko-Annupuri as its main peak, is a series of gently sloping peaks that are exposed to the north-west monsoon in winter, and is one of the areas with the heaviest snowfall in Hokkaido. It is rare in the world to find such good quality snow at a ski resort so close to a city center.

Powder snow here refers to snow with very low moisture content which is so silky that it will crumble without hardening when you try to make snowballs. Thanks to this powder snow, it doesn’t hurt much when you fall, you can easily make turns just by shifting your body’s axis, and you can also enjoy the sensation of floating on the snow.

There are five ski resorts in the area, with slopes to satisfy everyone from beginners to advanced mountain skiers. The area is even known as the ‘St. Moritz of the East.’

Skiing in the region has a long history, with an Austrian military officer reportedly bringing skis to the region in the 1910s. It spread rapidly after that, especially among Hokkaido students.

Skiing at that time was strongly characterized as a means of climbing snow-capped mountains, and Niseko has long been a place for mountain skiing.

A major change in Niseko came with the opening of the first lifts at the Hirafu ski resort in the early 1960s.

It was here that skiing, which had previously been part of mountaineering, began to spread as a leisure activity.

A new trend that has become noticeable in Niseko since around 2000 is the rapid increase in the number of skiers and snowboarders from abroad. The appeal of Niseko’s high-quality powder snow has become widely known and the number of skiers, especially from Australia, has increased dramatically.

As you may know, Niseko has entered a new era as an international ski resort, with an increasing number of hotels and condominiums for visitors from abroad being opened.

The Michelin Guide recently announced its first selection of Michelin Key hotels in Japan. The quality of service and the attractiveness of local experiences are assessed and rated with a maximum of three keys. The luxury Japanese-style inn Zaborin in Kutchan-cho, near Niseko, has been selected as a Two Key hotel and five facilities in the Niseko/Kutchan-cho area have earned One Key distinctions.

As you can see, all the selected facilities are located in the Niseko and Kutchan-cho area, which is a testimony to its development as an international resort.

The Niseko mountain range is not only for winter skiing, but also for mountaineering in spring and summer, and for enjoying the autumn foliage, making it an attractive destination throughout the year.

Niseko Annupuri is the main peak of the Niseko mountain range, although it is in the low mountain category at 1308 m above sea level. There are two routes up the mountain, including one by gondola.

As a climb, the mountain is suitable for beginners as it can be climbed with minimal equipment. Despite this, the view from the top of the mountain is super spectacular, and you may wonder how it is possible to see such a magnificent view so easily. It is one of the safest mountains to climb, making it suitable for those who are thinking about starting to climb and for those who just want to see the sights.

Niseko Annupuri is also known as a treasure trove of alpine flora, so you can look forward to seeing which flowers you will come across during your climb.

In autumn, the mountains of Hokkaido, such as Niseko Annupuri, are famous for their beautiful autumn tints. The autumn colors usually begin in late September and are at their best from early to mid-October. You can enjoy the autumn foliage of the mountain ash, birch and other species.

Other enjoyable mountaineering destinations include Iwaonupuri and Chisenupuri. Iwaonupuri is the youngest volcano in the Niseko mountain range, while Chisenupuri is a trapezoidal mountain. Either of them can be climbed to the top in about an hour.

However, it is not possible to climb in sneakers or sandals. At the very least, you need climbing shoes or similar footwear, and a rucksack to carry water and food.

Of course, you can enjoy many other activities besides mountaineering. Take the Annupuri gondola to the 1,000 m altitude point, a 10-minute ride each way. From the gondola’s summit station building or observatory area, you can enjoy magnificent views of Mt. Yotei, Lake Toya, Mt. Usu and Eruption Bay.

There is also an exciting hot air balloon experience available. You can enjoy a panoramic view of Niseko Annupuri from 30 meters above the ground.

If you are in the Niseko area, a visit to Shinsen Marsh is also recommended. Shinsen Marsh is said to be the most beautiful of the many lakes and marshes in the Niseko area, with fantastic scenery that changes from season to season. Shinsen Marsh, surrounded by virgin forest, is also one of Niseko Annupuri’s best spots to enjoy the autumn colors and has a mysterious atmosphere.

There is a wooden path from the car park to the marsh, and it is a popular spot for visitors to enjoy alpine flora while taking a casual 20-minute walk. From the observatory, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the Sea of Japan and the mountains of the Shakotan Peninsula, and enjoy the spectacular scenery created by the magnificent nature.

You can also enjoy the area’s hot springs (onsens) to your heart’s content.

The onsens scattered around the foothills of the Niseko mountain range have been designated as ‘national health spas’ because of their excellent hot springs and surroundings. The many hot springs in this area include Niseko Goshiki Onsen, Niseko Yumoto Onsen and Niseko Kombu Onsen. Many resort hotels and pensions (small family-run guesthouses) with good facilities and services are located in the area, but some of the hot springs are located in detached inns.

・ What to satisfy your appetite with here in this area!

Now that we have covered the highlights of the area, I would like to finish by mentioning some good food and drink.

Though it goes without saying that all of Hokkaido’s seafood is delicious, the first thing you must enjoy on the Shakotan Peninsula in summer is the sea urchin!

The coastal road of National Highway 229 is dotted here and there with seafood restaurants and fisherman-owned eateries where you can enjoy sea urchin.

The most famous dish is the sea urchin bowl, which is served with sea urchin freshly picked from the shores nearby and served on top of a bowl of rice.

The sea urchins in this area are the short-spined sea urchin or Ezo-bafun-uni and the Northern sea urchin or Kita-murasaki-uni.

When entering a seafood restaurant in the Shakotan area, there are usually three separate bowls on the menu: red sea urchin bowl, white sea urchin bowl, and red & white sea urchin bowl.

The aka-uni-don or red sea urchin bowl is a bowl of short-spined sea urchin whose ovaries have a beautiful reddish-bronze or orange-red color; the shiro-uni-don or white sea urchin bowl is a bowl of yellowish Northern sea urchin; and the red & white sea urchin bowl is a combination of both in equal parts.

When you enjoy sea urchin in Hokkaido for the first time, I urge you to compare them in a red & white sea urchin bowl. You will certainly be able to enjoy the different delicious tastes of both.

As for alcoholic beverages, gin is now in the limelight in the region.

Niseko Distillery in Niseko uses high-quality underground water from Niseko Annupuri, and sweet gale and Japanese mint from the town of Niseko as botanicals. The result is clear and smooth, but with a solid core and a light citrus aroma.

Its Ohoro GIN won the world’s highest award at the World Gin Awards 2024. No reservation is required for the shop or the bar counter, and you can visit the distillery if you book in advance. Why not pay a visit?

Excellent gin is also distilled in the Shakotan area. Here is one gin distillery in nearby Shakotan. Its name is Shakotan Spirit. Its greatest strength is its integrated process from in-house botanical cultivation to distillation, something which is rare anywhere in the world. When you take a sip of their craft gin at room temperature, you can feel its Japanese essence. In addition to the aroma of juniper berries and fresh hops, the lush, fresh and somehow nostalgic aroma of red spruce reminds you of a green forest. It is fun to compare these gins!

And we must not forget that, if Sapporo is the birthplace of domestic beer in Hokkaido, Yoichi, located at the base of the Shakotan Peninsula, is one of the birthplaces of Japanese whisky.

Today, the only whisky distillery in the world to apply the traditional coal-fired distillation method and continue to produce whisky in the authentic Scottish style is said to be the Nikka Whisky Yoichi distillery.

Although advance booking is required, some of the factory facilities can be visited on guided tours, and reservations are not required for the museum and paid tasting areas. Here, visitors are recommended to taste the single cask Yoichi 10-year old. The aroma of oak maturation, malt sweetness and rich fruitiness are in perfect harmony. Enjoy the depth of flavor produced by 10 years of ageing.

Final tips for you

Hokkaido is so large yet compact that it is extremely difficult to decide where you want to go and what you want to do. In other words, there are almost too many great attractions with different themes.

Someone said ‘Always remember life is a learning journey. Keep filling your mind with all that is worthy’. That may also be taken to mean ‘Keep filling your mind with all that is worthy here in Hokkaido!’

Anyway, itineraries incorporating the spots introduced here can be freely customized to suit your interests. Please leave it to Hokkaido Treasure Island Travel Inc.!